It was my grand-aunt's 82nd birthday, and she requested "something I haven't had before" for dinner. Taking advantage of the situation, I suggested Italian and pooom that's what happened. Duck ragu had been in my head for weeks, and I'll admit I saw it in Gwyneth Paltrow's cookbook which, yes, I own. BUT it's good, I promise!
When I told my mother and grandmother that duck ragu was happening, I'm not kidding, they could not understand what I meant. I mean, how hard is it to imagine? "it's a sauce, but with duck meat in it" "wait, so you're going to put duck on top of the pasta?" "no, imagine a bolognese sauce but with duck" "so... there'll be beef in it?" "NO, it's like shredded duck IN the sauce" "Um, I don't understand" WHAT!!?
Anyway, the day came, and I was greeted by a swollen eye (stye, ugh) and the news that our water supply was going to be cut off from 11am-6pm. But, the ingredients were bought, and though this isn't true, I like to pretend I'm not a quitter.
I overstretched myself again, unsurprisingly. We had Grilled Snapper wrapped with Pancetta and Thyme, Steamed White Wine Clams and Prawns, and other stuff, like Squid, Fennel and Tomato Salad.
But all this is incidental when compared to DUCK RAGU. I mean those two words alone are great, but together? No chance.
Wait, what's that? You want a closer look at the sauce? All right, if you insist.
If we look at cooking as an investment, in terms of effort, time and ingredients put in, the returns are outstanding.
Duck Ragu (inspired by various sources, one being Notes from my Kitchen Table by Gwyneth Paltrow)
serves 4-6
1 duck
2 carrots, finely chopped
2 sticks of celery, finely chopped
2 onions, finely chopped
3-4 cloves of garlic, or whatever amount you like, really - finely chopped
2 bay leaves
2-3 sprigs of rosemary
Half a teaspoon of dried oregano
2 rashers of bacon or pancetta - this is optional, we did without (keep it on the DL) - cut into chunks
Zest of an orange, grated
1 bottle of nice red wine - we used Cabernet Sauvignon
1 tin peeled plum tomatoes
1 small tin (about 5 tablespoons) concentrated tomato purée
Heat your oven to about 200°c. Clean your duck, and then rub it with salt and pepper inside and out. Drizzle oil all over, and then stick it in the oven breast side down. Roast it for two hours in total, turning it over halfway through. [Gwyneth Paltrow's recipe says to turn it every half an hour, but this is too laborious when you're making loads of other food]
When the duck is done, let it cool and then shred it. PLEASE, save the skin, and try to slice or tear it off as neatly as possible, trust me. Set the skin aside apart from the shredded meat.
In a pan, heat up a good glug of olive oil, and add the bacon, dried oregano and bay leaves. Fry until the bacon is lightly coloured, then add the chopped vegetables. Cook until they're softened and the onions are translucent. Add the garlic, and then the shredded duck meat. Oh, and the rosemary as well.
Fry for a short, short while, then add the wine. Yes, all of it. You do not want to skimp here. The tinned tomatoes and tomato puree go in next, as well as the orange zest. Stir it to mix it, then put a lid on and let it cook for a good 3-4 hours at least. If it's still too wet after this, just cook it lid off for a bit.
We had the sauce on tagliatelle, and topped it with Gremolata breadcrumbs. This is, quite simply, grated or minced garlic, grated lemon zest, finely chopped parsley and lightly toasted breadcrumbs (panko, always) all mixed up together.
Okay and here's the best part: That skin I told you about earlier? Cut into bite-size chunks, and fry in some hot oil until crispy and golden brown. Let it drain and cool on some kitchen paper, and then serve it on salad with mustard vinaigrette. YES.
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